just personal thoughts
My personal assignment; trying to get as close as possible to the object (completely stranger), and this are two results:
Just a tip when we do shot close up to strangers… chat with them either after or before, to show that you are normal, not just a weirdo…
Few more picture… the picture inside engine room is here : http://vidinur.com/2013/07/22/land-rover-series-1-88-inch-engine-bay/
Hope it helps and hope that you can help me finding items to replace the incorrect one… thanks broer..
Dolly’s brake is not the best… I have to pump few times before it works decently, and the brake oil is seeping out from rear brake cylinder. Have tried to bleed the system but it does not help either. The option is to replace the whole set of wheel brake cylinder or the seal only… I opt for the later.. :)
Since the brake cylinder is genuine girling, we are using “girling” seals… not sure if it is genuine, but the words Girling stamped on the seals… So we installed it without any major incidence… Easy, Done..! or so we think…
One day later, when I drive it out of town, one of the brake locked (bind). Dolly literally dragging its tire, I can smell the burning brake pad, but I continue to push it further until we find a garage. When we found one, I told the garage owner what is wrong and he help me to fix it…
Later on we found out that the seal is locked solid… it can’t slide (expand and return) inside the cylinder wheel easily. The problem is, there no shop carrying land rover spare part around here. but the garage owner is very resourceful, he said that the seal looks like Toyota’s
He bring the seals to nearest automotive shop and ask for Toyotas (4 tires Toyota truck not the 6 tires) Indonesian call it “Toyotas engkel”, and it fits splendidly… No bind, easy slides, expand and return all working great… not to mention the price is very cheap too, all seals cost me US$ 2.8 (Rp. 28.000).
I am using it for about 2 weeks now, and no problems… So if you have problem with your wheel brake cylinder seals.. Use Toyota’s truck seals, make sure the size is the same.. hope it helps
Starting 1958 land rover series 1, let me know if you hear any unusual sound
Land rover series 1 can be categorized as classic car. This Landy in particular is already 50 + years old, most of them will already give up the ghost… few survived and we give credit to old car that retain the original parts…
Here is the picture of landy and inside the engine bay… only few is not original, thanks to the previous owner who tried to use original part whenever possible
Thats all for now, generally I am happy with the originality of the engine… will let you know if it start OK… :) let me know if you have any questions… Cheers
Dolly’s or general land rover series temperature gauge is not accurate, but the needle is showing broad indication whether the temperature is OK or not, so I do not really pay attention when the needle is showing slightly high or low than normal (by normal I mean is the needle not above letter “N” ). But few days ago, I find something is not right… the gauge is showing consistently on the high side of letter “N” and few times above “N”.
I remember a friend said to me long time ago… if the gauge showing normal.. it may be to good to be true.. so check it regularly (like once a week)… if the gauge showing not normal condition… Don’t be denial… it is absolutely “a must” to check the whole system…
But this time I do not follow his advise… I think it just normal for land rover gauge to behave abnormal like this… So I continue using it until one day…. the temperature gauge showing fast increase from cold to normal and then higher than “N”.
And worst, I just realize in the mid of heavy traffic, stopping here will certainly cause a massive traffic jam. So I continue driving until found an exit to the slow line and find the first building and parked there… by this time the needle is close to touching red.
There are few tricks to open the radiator cap when its hot, but I do not advise anyone to open it while it hot, unless you know what you doing… it can cause major burn injury if you do that. the safest option is to turn off the engine, leave it there to cool down for may be an hour or more.
I do not have one hour, so I need to make it run the soonest, first I carefully open the water expansion cap (water is boiling in there), and then start open the radiator cap by turning it bit by bit… to reduce the pressure inside radiator.. (I can hear the water is boiling hot inside). I am using a thick news paper for protection and redirecting the hot water in case water bursting from the radiator or expansion tank (after make sure that no one near me of course).
Very thick water steam comes out from radiator cap (not yet fully open), I leave it at that until the steam disappear, mean while I bought two 1.5 liter mineral water from nearby stall. Finally I turn on the engine and open the radiator cap fully (very carefully) and start pouring it.. very slowly… very-very slowly…until the gauge now back to slightly below “N”. (Never pour the cold water at once, do it slowly otherwise there will be a good chance damaging the cylinder head and a lot safer too… )
And then with quick check what went wrong, I found that the radiator is leaking, fortunately not big, so armed with another 2 bottle of 1.5L mineral water I continue driving … if the traffic permit, I stop and topping up the radiator until I safely arrived somewhere I need to be… sweating bullet.. :D
Now I have two options curing this problem… I can change the radiator with brand new as the radiator is having the same age as the car… or I can mend / patch it… brand new radiator is US$ 180, while patching it will cost me US$15 which include cleaning inside the radiator… no brainer I choose the cheaper one… but I promise my self to save for new radiator int he future.. :)
So here is Dolly’s radiator under repair…
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